As the days shorten and light dims, there are yet glories and comfort to be had. This, a gift from a jam-making friend, from a species of quince native to Asia but which has nevertheless made a home in my Scottish garden, adding a mix of subtle piquancy and thorniness, bit like our national character, is perfect with homemade scones, a pot of tea, a lit fire … Who needs the Danes to tell us how to coorie-in ?